Osteria Elio Volpe: Inside Vancouver's newest Italian restaurant

Mar 15 2024, 10:50 pm

We went, we ate, we loved it. Osteria Elio Volpe has been high on our list of hotly anticipated restaurant openings for 2024, so a visit to the new Cambie Village spot on opening night was the move.

Stepping into the 540 West 17th Avenue restaurant, you would not have guessed the 4,200 sq ft space was a former mechanic’s shop.

Co-owner Craig Stanghetta’s Ste Marie Studio transformed the area into a laid-back beachy dining space, complete with a central bar, cozy booths, and an overall sunny, breezy vibe.

The Banda Volpi concept has said Elio is Savio Volpe’s carefree cousin, and if you’ve been to the Michelin-recommended Kingsway destination, that should be enough to excite you.

“The journey from announcing a new restaurant to witnessing its completion, all based on our collective vision for the concept, is still such an amazing feeling, ” says Paul Grunberg, co-founder of Banda Volpi.

 

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So, what can you expect from the menu here?

The restaurant offers coastalinspired Italian cuisine from Culinary Director Phil Scarfone alongside Head Chef Alan Tam, Executive Sous Chef Vish Mayekar, Banda Volpe Executive Pastry Chef Jessi Morton, and Pastry Chef Tania Petrin.

Before we dive into the fare, it’s time to talk drinks. The wine list here is rooted in Italian tradition, and there’s a lot to explore.

Elio Volpe

Elio Sour (Hanna McLean/Daily Hive)

For cocktails, there are seven Negronis up for order. We, however, opted for the signature house beverage, the Elio Sour.

Made with Tanqueray Gin, grapefruit & hibiscus cordial, orange bitters, lemon, foamer, and a Lambrusco float, this was a sip we’ll be returning for.

We also checked out the Bellini made with blood orange puree and Cinzano prosecco. It was equally as delicious.

Elio Volpe

Bellini (Hanna McLean/Daily Hive)

But onto the grub. Dished was told the team carefully developed this menu over a period of two years; a lot of love and effort has gone into its curation.

Folks can opt to order à la carte or dine ‘Alla Famiglia for $79 per guest.

We went with the former as it was our first visit, and we had our eye on a few plates in particular, but when we return with a larger group, we suspect the latter will be the route.

Elio Volpe

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

In terms of specific dishes we were interested in, it was tricky to narrow it down because, frankly, everything looked and sounded appealing.

Before we get to the heavy-hitting mains, the antipasti section of the menu needs its moment.

Selections included Oyama finocchiona, Mortadella DOP, and Yellowfin tuna crudo, to name a few.

A standout veggie side was the grilled cabbage. Served with spicy soppressata butter, garlic chives, and sour cream, this offering paired perfectly with the Chicken al Mattone with Calabrian chili crunch and parsley.

Elio Volpe

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Naturally, pizza and pasta were at the top of our minds. We went with the house favourite, pepperoni with Castelvetrano olives, shaved button mushrooms, and pomodoro.

Unlike the gloriously thick Detroit-style pizza from another Banda Volpi concept, Pepino’s, Elio’s crust is super thin and crispy.

There are several other kinds of pizza we need to try on our return visit to this fresh spot, including a Manila clam, salsa bianco, wild oregano, and lemon zest combo.

Elio Volpe

Pepperone Pizza (Hanna McLean/Daily Hive)

The pasta program here is strong. The option to order half portions is always something we appreciate.

We chose three half orders of pasta, including the Rigatoni cacio e pepe, Carnaroli risotto, and the Spaghetti al sesamo. All delicious.

Elio Volpe

Carnaroli Risotto (Hanna McLean/Daily Hive)

Save room for dessert, because the Tiramisu cheesecake is not to be missed. We may or may not have asked if guests could request to purchase an entire cake…it was that good.

Elio Volpe is now open for dinner service daily at 5 pm. The new restaurant will also be launching its weekend brunch service very soon.

Elio Volpe

Tiramisu Cheesecake (Hanna McLean/Daily Hive)

Osteria Elio Volpe

Address: 540 West 17th Avenue, Vancouver

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