The Darkside: Inside Vancouver's new Asian gastropub

Nov 29 2022, 12:42 am

Vancouver’s new Asian gastropub, The Darkside, soft-launched a few days ago, and you know we had to step in and see what was cooking at the fresh Chinatown destination.

Partners are calling this concept “TOTT” for the initial opening period.

It’s the restaurant’s short-term pop-up that allows diners to wet their whistles when it comes to what the fully-finished eatery will offer once it grand opens in January 2023.

While TOTT offers a condensed menu of what’s in store for the larger concept, it packs a punch, and we’re big fans of the selections up for order.

We started off with wings — yes, an oldie but a goodie.

Nothing says energetic, casual hangout more than a fun cocktail and a fire selection of this top-tier finger food, if you ask us.

TOTT offers six varieties. Standout flavours include the Spicy Dandan and General Steph, which is named after managing partner, Steph Wan.

The former has all the peanutty goodness you need along with a kick of chilli oil, while the latter is the concept’s take on a spicy General Tao creation.

The Darkside

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

One should be forewarned though, wings are just the warm-up here. So save room.

Wan and Managing Partner/Chef, Kevin Lin, have put their heads together to create a menu of eye-catching (and drool-worthy) bites that are perfect for sharing with your group at one of the long, beer hall-style tables in the space.

Dishes here are inspired by Lin’s Taiwanese roots and travels in Southeast Asia, along with Wan’s Cantonese heritage.

The duo, who are also behind Kerrisdale’s Land & Sea, struggled to name just one favourite from the menu when we asked. After trying most of it ourselves, we can see why.

The Darkside

Everyday I’m Brussellin’ (Hanna McLean/Daily Hive)

Both Lin and Wan describe TOTT/The Darkside as their “playground” when it comes to experimenting and executing culinary creations and sips from the bar.

You’ll see this playful inspiration come through in dishes like Mom’s Spaghetti, a riff on homemade pasta — whatever’s-in-the-pantry-vibes, but in this case, rotini — topped with hearty meat sauce, Thai basil, and Kraft parm.

Another highlight? The Green Curry Quesadilla, which comes complete with gooey cheese and pickled jalapeno.

 

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For drinks, specialty cocktails like the Yin Yang Martini, a spin on a popular coffee and tea beverage in Hong Kong known as Yuenyeung, are up for order. This was almost too drinkable — don’t say we didn’t warn you.

We can’t leave you without mentioning that there’s definitely a need to opt for dessert here. Namely, the PB No J.

This dish features deep-fried French toast topped with condensed milk and peanuts.

You can find The Darkside’s pop-up TOTT open for dinner and late-night bites starting from 5 pm until late.

The Darkside

Address: 219 Union Street, Vancouver

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