Taste O’ahu and beyond: Vancouver's Hānai is a true delight (PHOTOS)

May 17 2023, 9:12 pm

It’s been open for just over one year and Commercial Drive’s Hānai feels like it’s settled into the neighbourhood quite nicely.

The concept, which slid mostly under the radar during its first months of operation, is described as a place to enjoy home-spun farm-to-table cooking.

Hānai’s menu is inspired by Chef Tess Bevernage’s childhood growing up in O’ahu and travels throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Those eats, paired with industry vets Stephen Whiteside, Miki Ellis, and wine director Anna Sutela’s sake and natural wine picks, equals a mighty fine dining experience.

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

While Hānai’s cozy and colourful dining room always saves room for walk-ins, we’d recommend booking a reservation when checking out the Ohana Menu.

This Hawaii and BC-inspired tasting menu was a delight. Served as a family-style sharing menu, it all kicks off with snacks for the table.

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

During our visit, that included boiled peanuts and a selection of housemade pickles and punchy ferments.

We can’t forget to mention the Studio Brewing beer battered smelt served with spiced togarashi mayo, either.

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

The lineup we tasted featured an array of seasonal vegetables and produce from local and organic farms like the Chrysanthemum Salad made with red cabbage, daikon, and umeboshi dressing.

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Highlights for us here included the Two Rivers hanger steak with galangal chili paste, calamansi, and greens; the potato salad with smoked bonito and Kewpie mayo; and the whole fried soft-shell crab.

The latter arrived with house curry sauce and pickled cucumber, which paired wonderfully with the furikake rice complete with sesame crunch.

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Speaking of stellar additions, the squid with green chili and cilantro sauce serves up a kick of spice. This one is a winner too.

Opting for a slice of Haupia Ube Pie or one of the other sweet treats up for order (Chocolate Mochi Cake, we’re looking at you) is definitely the way to go when wrapping up here.

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Hanai

Hanna McLean/Daily Hive

Hānai’s Ohana Menu is available for $60 per person with an optional $45 beverage pairing, which can be added on.

This spot is really one of a kind and certainly brings some playful and tantalizing flavours to Commercial Drive. If you haven’t had the chance to pop in yet, be sure to check it out.

Pro tip: on Thursdays, folks can go into nearby Liberty Wines to pick up a bottle for themselves before coming to Hānai for dinner, with no additional corking fee.

Hānai Restaurant

Address: 1590 Commercial Drive, Vancouver

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