Historic Montreal: What it's like dining at the oldest restaurant in Canada
If you’re looking to go real old in Old Montreal, you can’t any more historic than L’Auberge Saint-Gabriel.
In fact, you can’t get older than the 268-year-old restaurant anywhere else in Canada.
Built in 1754 as an inn, L’Auberge Saint-Gabriel is currently the oldest functioning restaurant in the country. The building has kept much of its same look over the past nearly three centuries and while it’s been refurbished over the years, the auberge’s iconic stone walls are an astounding time warp of its history.
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The historic Old Port establishment is also a perfect example of the old adage “good food never goes out of style” — even over 260 years later.
For those keeping score at home, when L’Auberge Saint-Gab first opened to the public in 1754, the world’s population was 791,000,000.
Fast forward nearly three centuries and the inn is still in business, hosting daily food services, weddings, and events.
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We recently had the privilege of indulging ourselves at the iconic spot and it was as tasty as it is significant to Montreal — and Canada’s — culinary scene.
The food at L’Auberge Saint-Gabriel
Saint-Gab has a little bit of everything when it comes to meat including lamb, Cornish hen, duck magret, beef filets, and prime rib (and a decadent beef tartare as a starter). The Old Montreal inn also has a knock-out sole meunière and an equally-appealing arctic char.
Head Chef Amédée Bécherraz focuses his menu on local products and heavily emphasizes all of his menu items’ traceability.
Unfortunately, the prices aren’t the same as they were in 1754 but you can still wine and dine at the inn for a pretty respectable price, considering its history.
Even though the herb butter lobster was calling my name, I opted for the spit-roasted cornish hen as a main but not before the roasted cauliflower as an appetizer.
Roasted on a spit, the cauliflower plate is garnished with capers, pine nuts, and lemon vinaigrette with sour cream on the side. Grab this as a starter and you’ll probably never look at cauliflower as a dull vegetable ever again.
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Come on, you’re sitting in a timeless 268-year-old building, how could you not order both meals of the spit roast variety?
The $33 Cornish hen plate is juicy and loaded with flavour. It’s served with French fries and jus, both of which help to accentuate the chicken’s flame-roasted taste.
The ambiance at L’Auberge Saint-Gabriel
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It’s not often you get to enjoy a restaurant and honestly feel like you’re attending a feast in the Game of Thrones universe.
The 80-seater restaurant has two spacious bars, a main room, and three private event rooms. While waiting for your table, heat up by the fireplace and enjoy a remarkably scenic atmosphere cozied up by candlelight and stone walls.
The service at L’Auberge Saint-Gabriel
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The service is impeccable. Leave your wine desires in the hands of Saint-Gab’s knowledgeable staff, through the experienced sommelier Jean-Benoît Hinse.
The inn’s wine list works in harmony with its cuisine, offering the perfect palate pairing with its longstanding menu.
If you’re chowing down the spit-roasted Cornish hen, it’s only fitting to pair your meal with a Cabernet Sauvignon — especially on those snowy and cold Montreal winter nights.
A bit of Saint-Gabriel’s history
Auberge Saint-Gabriel was built in 1688 by a French soldier and became the first North American inn to receive a liquor licence, going all the way back to March 4, 1754.
The building was turned into a townhouse in the 19th century and has been functioning as the eatery since 1914. If you need a quick tidbit of history on your date: a fur trading post once occupied the space where the Velvet nightclub now stands.
A timeless slice of history that is a must-try in Montreal. Here’s hoping for 268 more.
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