Can't find snow around Vancouver? Why snow seekers should head to the West Kootenays

Journey to the West Kootenays, a region famed for its tranquil logging towns and quaint local ski/snowboard resorts like Revelstoke Mountain Resort, Whitewater, and Red Mountain. The season’s off to a sluggish start, a consequence of El Niño, it seems. All these resorts have postponed their opening days by at least a week. However, storms are beginning to surge in from the coast, blanketing the interior ranges with light, fluffy snow high into alpine.

The Valhalla and Selkirk mountains offer a snow paradise close to home for Vancouverites seeking higher altitudes. When the coastal mountains are bare, these lofty peaks boast abundant, fresh powder, perfect for winter sports enthusiasts, whether you ski or snowboard.

At 1:30 pm, the hum of helicopters resonates through the dogtooth peaks of the Selkirk and Valhalla mountains. Early season storm riding enthusiasts in Nelson, BC, frequent Tacos and Farm-to-Table restaurants, eagerly anticipating the brief 10-minute helicopter trip north to Baldface Lodge from the airport.

Bald Face Lodge

Baldface, a treasure of snowboard culture, offers 32,000 acres of rideable terrain, with its longest run stretching an impressive 3,100 vertical feet from peak to valley. Operating at half capacity early season in their legendary snowcats from late November to New Year’s, Baldface fully gears up for their regular season from January through April. Spots in their cats are often available throughout the year, but they’re scarce – snagging a seat is a coveted achievement.

Baldface recently introduced Valhalla, a more accessible, multi-day town-based cat operation. Boasting twice the amount of skiable terrain than Whistler/Blackcomb, they allow guests to enjoy Nelson’s proximity offerings without the remote, high-elevation lodge experience. You can stay in Nelson, drive to the parking lot daily, and experience the splendid Kootenay snow without breaking your budget.

Dustinlalikphoto/Instagram

Further north, Revelstoke Mountain Resort has finally opened for the season. The Revelation Gondola is spinning but is low tide, as they say. We’re dodging trees, roots, and rocks, getting a taste of that early-season soft stuff. The buzz in town is infectious, and rolling past Dose Coffee, you can’t help but feel the energy and caffeine. 

A few other helicopter operations are flying early season, too. Eagles Pass runs both a day and a lodge-based operation right outside of Revelstoke. With an incredible tenure boasting 390,000 acres, there are plenty of north-facing aspects that can deliver blower snow this early into the season.

Dustinlalikphoto/Instagram

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When it’s six degrees and raining in Whistler, the maintenance crew is spending more time draining water from the village gondola corral than building park features, and the $299 lift ticket have you feeling bummed, the West Kootenays is your answer.