What it’s like aboard Canada’s iconic Rocky Mountaineer luxury train

After my recent trip aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, I am fully convinced that there is no better way to travel than by rail. Whether it’s the spacious seating, beautiful views, or just comparing it to the cramped, nearly three-hour flight from Vancouver to Denver, where I survived off of a mushy airport cheeseburger and in-flight ginger ale, there’s no denying that train travel is superior.

This was the first time I had ever ridden on a luxury rail, but I am already counting the days until I can experience it all over again. And now that I’m a seasoned train riding expert (maybe take that with a grain of salt), I know exactly what I would want to do all over again. Keep on reading to learn all about my do’s and don’ts when riding the Rocky Mountaineer from Denver to Moab.

Denver

Regrettably, I did not get to spend more than a night in Denver. But I do have some quick recommendations to get things started in the Mile High City.

First, don’t make the mistake I did of being tempted by the airport Shake Shack or Chik-fil-A if you’re flying into Denver. There are plenty of great local food spots to enjoy in the city. I, however, succumbed to the wafting aroma of burgers and fries and chowed down on a Shack Stack, a combination of Shake Shack’s Angus patty and ‘Shroom burger (a portabello mushroom deep-fried and filled with cheese). It’s as delicious as it sounds, and I enjoyed every bite, but if I knew what was in store in the city, I would have saved my appetite. That being said, if you’re on the hunt for some American fast food staples, this would be your chance.

For my one and only night, I stayed at The Rally Hotel, a charming spot steps away from Coors Field. Upon check-in, I was greeted with my choice of a glass of Mile High Jinks beers or Bubble Universe sparkling wine, which would end up being one of the many complimentary drinks I would enjoy during my Rocky Mountaineer experience.

For dinner and some nightlife action, I wandered over to the Poka Lola Social Club, which was just a few blocks from my lodgings. In this swanky lounge, I enjoyed plenty of small bites like chicken bites, parmesan and herb frites, and buffalo cauliflower bites (deep-fried cauliflower florets with buffalo sauce and a side of ranch) that ended up as the crowd favourite of both the vegetarians and omnivores of our group.

Upon leaving the hotel the next morning to begin my Rocky Mountaineer experience, I chatted with the hotel receptionist, who spoke highly of a food hall close to the hotel. Dubbed the “Milk Market,” this spot served fares ranging from lobster rolls to fried chicken sandwiches, ice cream and even an in-house bakery. If that wasn’t enough to convince you, this 11-concept food hall also features its own arcade. While I lament not visiting, I fear it was for the best. My food-loving heart may have exploded with all the tasty options.

Rocky Mountaineer Day 1: Denver to Glenwood Springs

What’s the best way to start your cross-state train journey? A mimosa toast, of course. Our  On Board Host, Olivia Lopez, shared that the morning mimosa toast was customary at the start of their train journeys. This was something I had no problem getting behind. Then we were off to the races, passing the many smiling and waving crew members we would leave behind in Denver.

Our first leg of the trip took us from Denver to Glenwood Springs, which ended up being our longest travel day.

This was the first time on any journey where I’ve thought, “Wow, I wish that trip took us longer.” American philosopher Ralph Waldo Emerson was right when he said, “It’s not the destination, it’s the journey,” especially when that journey consists of an open drink cart and starts with a two-course hot breakfast.

Without missing a beat, I was served a delicious berry scone with a side of jam and a cup of coffee. Then, we were presented with our choice of waffles and sausage or a veggie frittata. I opted for the waffles and enjoyed my meal immensely while we watched the sunrise over Denver.

Buildings and power lines were soon replaced with green fields and trees as we continued our trek up the mountains toward Glenwood Springs.

I had brought a book along with me, worried that I would run out of things to do during what I thought would be a long train ride, but I pretty much didn’t need it. I could’ve spent hours just looking out the windows at the passing scenery.

The train also features an area between compartments with an open window for you to feel the breeze as you pass the scenery, as well as a lounge cart with a bar. The windows in these carts are smaller than the ones in the main area, so I ended up not spending very much time in there.

Eventually, we were served our lunch, which consisted of an arugula, cranberry and shaved manchego salad to start, a local braised beef short rib, and a chocolate torte for dessert.

One of the appeals of the Rocky Mountaineer trains is the large windows that curve upwards into the ceiling, giving you a panoramic view of your surroundings. Consider this the ultimate lunchtime entertainment.

Once you stop in Glenwood Springs, you’re just a block away from your hotel. One of the great things about the Rocky Mountaineer organizing your accommodations is that you leave your luggage behind in your previous hotel room, and it’ll magically appear in your next accommodations.

After a long day of train travelling, take this as an opportunity to stretch your legs and explore the quaint town and all the great local shops. I ended up at the town’s namesake: the hot springs, which was within walking distance from my hotel. With multiple pools set to different temperatures, this was a great way to end the day and relax.

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Rocky Mountaineer Day 2: Glenwood Springs to Moab

For this leg of the trip, you’ll have to leave your hotel early to catch the train. We’re talking about 6 am kind of early. But don’t worry; there’s a coffee and hot chocolate station outside the train to help get you started before your journey starts.

This is the shorter of the two legs of the journey, and weirdly, I had wished it would take longer.

Our journey started with a freshly baked Dreamweaver (think of a mix between a cinnamon bun and a doughnut) made by one of the local shops in Glenwood. Breakfast was soon served afterwards with your choice of peach strata bake (streusel crumbles, hickory smoked bacon, and maple whipped cream), front range plate (scrambled eggs, hickory smoked bacon, thyme-roasted tomatoes, onions, and biscuits with sausage gravy, or the Palisade pear and almond bircher muesli (overnight oats, toasted almonds, and a croissant).

The scenery quickly transformed from greenery to stunning red rocks as we made our way to Moab, and our guide, Lopez, told us that it’s the iron-enriched rock that gives these rocks their colour.

Aside from wildlife sightings, one thing to keep an eye out for is the “Colorado Salut,” which is the friendly way the Rocky Mountaineer staff refer to the people mooning the train as it passes. You may think I’m exaggerating, but we got mooned at least five times, if not more, during our two-day journey.

As a snack before the end of your train journey, you’ll be served some tamale pies with Bear River slaw, pickled red onions, and lime crema, which were a great small bite to tide you over until lunchtime. And you’ll definitely want to save room for lunch once you get into Moab.

Your train will stop in what will appear to be the middle of the desert, but don’t worry, charter busses await you to drive you into Moab.

We stayed in the Gravity Haus Moab, a modern-looking hotel just steps away from anything you might need, including the City Market and numerous restaurants.

Once settled, I made my way across the street to a food truck that had set up shop called Tey’s Home-made Mexican Food. If you weren’t paying attention, you might miss it, but this is a must-stop if you’re in the area. I enjoyed a torta that was so delicious and sloppy (in the best way possible) that I still think about it to this day. Moab is a hot spot for food trucks, but more on that later.

You and your companions will pile into a Hummer and tackle valleys and dips that you don’t think are possible in a car, all in the middle of the desert. We’re talking about climbing and going down 40-degree slopes, something my Honda Civic at home could never do in my wildest dreams.

Our driver, Nick, was not only one hell of a good driver, being able to tackle this insane course, but also extremely knowledgeable about the local fauna and the landscape. He’d discuss the juniper that grows throughout Moab one second and then simply let go of the brakes and let us freely roll down a huge hill in the next second, doing both with ease.

There are also plenty of opportunities to get out of the Hummer and explore the sights, where you’ll spot gorgeous scenery and even dinosaur footprints. Plus, experiencing the beauty of Moab during sunset is incredible. The brilliant red rocks look stunning with the backdrop of the orange and purple hues of the setting sun.

Once we finished with our Hummer tour, we stopped by Josie Wyatt Grille for dinner, a great spot for steaks, burgers, and an assortment. After roughing it out in the desert, I felt a little out of place in such a nice eatery, but once I demolished the delightful meal, all those worries disappeared.

After the day’s excitement, you’ll have some of the best sleep of your life.

Moab Day 2

While you may be sad that your train experience is over, there are still plenty of things to see and do within Moab.

A must-do is to explore Arches National Park, but it’s important to note that a reservation is required in advance to enter the park. You’ll be able to wander amongst the giant arches, which are even more massive looking up close than they are from a distance. This is your picture-perfect vacation moment, so be sure to snap some pics to make your friends jealous.

Another cool spot in Moab is the food truck park, which has a lot set up with tables and numerous food trucks serving all sorts of cuisine. There was even one that specialized in sushi, but given it was in the middle of the desert with no access to fresh fish, I opted to try something else, though I’m sure it would have been fantastic.

All the locals will tell you to head over to Quesadilla Mobilla for Tex-Mex cuisine at its finest. As the name suggests, you’ll find an assortment of cheesy quesadillas on the menu filled with all sorts of yummy goodness, from chicken to mushrooms and jalapeños.

While we didn’t end up taking the train back, there is an option to make your Rocky Mountaineer experience a round trip and head back to Denver. And I can promise you firsthand that by the time you get to Moab, you’ll wish your Rocky Mountaineer experience was longer.

The author of this article was hosted by Rocky Mountaineer