It’s the new restaurant and bar on everyone’s lips: June on Cambie.

We were lucky to land a reservation during the modern brasserie’s soft opening period. The 100-seat main dining room of the Cambie Village destination was packed nearly the entire time we were there, which was more than three hours.

That liveliness out of the gate is not by chance or surprising in the least, as the award-winning team from The Keefer Bar is behind the new concept. The Chinatown destination is well loved and considered an institution in Vancouver’s food and beverage landscape. It has the accolades and community-backed reputation to prove it. Knowing who was behind June certainly added to our eagerness to see it.

We gathered that many folks from the hospitality industry felt the same. Familiar faces dotted the room; several staff members from other top-notch Vancouver establishments were at June that night. We’re told some had been back multiple times during the short pre-launch phase. That kind of support is always a good sign; it’s arguably the ultimate humble flex for a new spot.

The view from the plush booth we settled into was a solid one. It offered a prime vantage point for the action and the room’s key design elements: the distinctively round Art Deco windows, the dazzling copper art installation, the central bar, and the pass-through window offering a glimpse into the kitchen.

The room felt relaxed yet upscale, classic with a modern edge, and it was clear that this was by design. From the ambient lighting to the music to the dapper staff uniforms of a grey blazer, crisp tie, and shiny new J pin, the team had curated one heck of an atmosphere.

The reality was that the 3305 Cambie St. building had existed much longer than many of us. It was built in 1947 and was previously occupied by “Charlie the Barber,” a Biercraft location, and, before that, Tomato Café.

June sought to honour the legacy and character of the building with the help of acclaimed Mexico City-based architect Héctor Esrawe, who is behind the harmonious design of the space.

The bi-level restaurant has an upcoming happy hour menu (4 to 5 p.m.), a 35-seat downstairs bar, and three patios set to launch as well. We can expect to see more sides of June as the months unfold, but for now, here’s what you can anticipate from the new restaurant’s menu and drink program.

What to order at June

Just as June’s overall vibe straddles the worlds of old and new, so does its menu.

Head chef Connor Sperling designed a selection of sophisticated yet casual West Coast-French fare, described as embodying the perfect balance between tradition and modern cooking.

Thanks to a speedy yet informative overview of the hits from General Manager Leticia Castro, we already had most of our meal planned out before we sat down. A resident expert on all things June, the industry vet oozed with enthusiasm when offering recommendations.

Naturally, we took every one. But the food wasn’t the first thing to hit our table, as the hotly anticipated cocktail lineup was up for order and at the top of our minds.

The program was collaboratively designed by bar director Amber Bruce, bar manager Satoshi Yonemori, and head bartender Riley Maggs. We kicked things off with a selection from the martini menu, the Classic June Martini. Elegant and simple, it was perfect, and we made quick work of finishing it.

Similarly, the oh-so-drinkable Blue Fizz was light and sweet but packed a punch when it came to flavour. A combo of Absolut Vodka, lime, Calpico, blue banana, and egg soda, we quickly understood why this sip was a crowd favourite.

The drinks had us impressed, and now it was time to turn to the plates.

There are two tartares on the menu, and the choice was tough. One had to win, and the Beef Tartare with peppered egg yolk and potato chips emerged victorious. We’ll get the Haidacore Tuna next time.

The Scallops with citrus beurre blanc were tangy, creamy, and seared to perfection. The Crab Dip arrived at the same time. Surrounded by a glorious ring of spiced madeleines, this is a must-order in our books.

After the garlic croissant-topped Caesar salad landed on the table next to us, we didn’t think we could be delighted further.

That’s when the real showstopper came into view: a heaping wooden pail of French butter. We’ve had a lot of tableside offerings in our time, but this butter reveal is probably our favourite in recent memory. It was unapologetically extra, not to mention memorable.

Chef Sperling gave us a good look at the remarkable display of dairy before turning his attention to the Pasta for Rachel on the table, or, as some have already dubbed it, the “viral pasta,” thanks to early social media love. Topped with a healthy helping of butter before our eyes, the combo of pasta, comté, and pepper felt simple yet indulgent in the best way.

Guests have a few options when it comes to the Steak Frites: the 8 oz NY Strip or the 6 oz Bavette. A must-have for any classic brasserie, we went with the latter, and it showed up with a satisfying portion of golden, crispy fries and house mayo.

Our final cocktail arrived just before dessert, the Chamomile Sidecar. A smooth and rich drink, the calming mix of St-Rémy Brandy, black cardamom, chamomile, lemon, and ginger was the perfect note to finish on. We enjoyed it thoroughly alongside the silky and elegant creme caramel and zesty freshness of the playful pineapple soft serve.

In addition to a bustling dinner service, there’s already a late-night patronage quickly building at June (who says Vancouver isn’t fun?). As people who typically enjoy a bedtime on the earlier side of things, we were tempted to stay for a few extra rounds. We were somewhere between “it’s Tuesday” and “what’s one more?” due to the palpable buzz in the air.

We peeled ourselves off our seats and prepared to depart. Before we left, we were already planning our next visit. From the beverages to the butter moment to the incredible service and hospitality, it’s clear June is setting out to make a lasting impression.

Leaving the buzzing restaurant behind us, we determined that June seemed to effortlessly blend the charm of a longtime neighbourhood favourite with the excitement of a brand-new debut. That’s not an easy feat.

June officially opens its doors for dinner service on Thursday, April 10. Limited reservations can be made on the restaurant’s website.

June

Address: 3305 Cambie St., Vancouver

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