Canada's first vegan omakase has opened in Vancouver — here's what to expect
Right on the edge of Chinatown, just a few blocks away from other heavy hitters like Phnom Penh, The Keefer Bar, and DD Mau, is a new spot that recently opened that has the potential to be as iconic as the aforementioned spots, especially for the plant-based and vegan community.
Cofu Chinatown opened the doors to its second location in the city after five years of success at its original location near Granville Island. But don’t think of this as just a simple extension of its previous plant-based pressed sushi concept. Instead, it’s offering a one-of-a-kind experience: the first vegan omakase in Canada.
Marco Ovies/Dished
“Vegan food is most accessible food,” owner Akiko Gulkison told Dished when we stopped by for a visit. “Meat and fish are tasty, but certain people can’t eat them, so this is an opportunity for everyone to enjoy [omakase].”
Owner/founder Akiko Gulkison and Chef Ko Tanimizu (Marco Ovies/Dished)
We should warn you: don’t go in and expect a one-to-one recreation of your favourite nigiri (though Cofu does get pretty darn close). Instead, think of this 18-course meal as a celebration of your seasonal vegetables presented in a way you may have never tried them before.
The Plant-Based Eel Nigiri, for example, is a delightful bite made of eggplant and seaweed and, quite honestly, visually resembles unagi. However, there’s no denying that what you ate is indeed a vegetable and not eel, but that isn’t a bad thing. This might be one of the best pieces of eggplant you’ve ever eaten.
Plant-Based Eel Nigiri (Marco Ovies/Dished)
Another example includes Tororika Pickled in Soy Sauce, which was perhaps the most memorable bite of the night. Chef Ko Tanimizu — who we should add has 15 years of experience as a chef in Japan — has done something incredible with the humble red bell pepper. By torching the skin, removing it, and pickling it in soy sauce, Tanimizu has given it a nearly identical texture to a piece of tuna.
Marco Ovies/Dished
Texture was something very important to both Gulkison and Tanimizu when designing this omakase experience.
“Everybody knows the taste and texture of fish,” explained Gulkison, “But for veggies, a lot of veggies have the same crunchy texture. So, Chef Tanimizu needed to adjust his cooking style in order to get the same texture as traditional sushi.”
However, most of Cofu’s omakase menu is not meant to emulate the seafood-based nigiri you may be familiar with. This is exemplified by the fourth nigiri we tried: Avocado and Lotus Root.
Avocado is thinly sliced and placed atop perfectly seasoned rice, with a crunchy piece of lotus root and a touch of umeboshi (pickled plums that have a sour and salty taste). This combines for not only a delicious bite, but also a masterclass in texture.
Avocado and Lotus Root Nigiri (Marco Ovies/Dished)
While it’s easy to talk about the nigiri, there are also plenty of other non-nigiri highlights on the menu, including the dessert. Specifically, the Pumpkin Sponge Cake was fantastic, as well as our final course: Confection for Tea Matcha.
Pumpkin Sponge Cake (Marco Ovies/Dished)
This isn’t like your standard matcha latte you’d find mixed with strawberry syrup at the latest trendy cafe in the city. Instead, this is essentially just the shot of matcha you’d get served alongside sweet candied fruit. The bitterness of the matcha is offset by the sweetness of the candy for a very unique way to end your meal.
But after enjoying the many (and we mean many) courses Cofu had to offer, it became very clear that this omakase experience is definitely for vegetable fans. We’re not going to lie to you, if you’re someone who removes the lettuce and tomatoes from their burger and opts for just meat and bun, this may not be the place for you. But if you arrive with an open mind, an empty stomach, and a desire to try something new, this is definitely the spot for you.
Cofu’s 18-course omakase experience starts at $130 per person, with add-ons available. It is also only available at its Chinatown location by reservation from Wednesday to Sunday, with seatings at 5 and 7 p.m. However, Cofu also offers an à la carte menu for walk-ins and those wanting a more casual dining experience.
Cofu Chinatown
Address: 488 Gore Ave., Vancouver
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