Chef Jonathan Poon is my kind of fancy.
The chef and owner behind Bar Fancy has already introduced Torontonians to the joys of oysters and cocktails with sides of fried chicken and nachos.
Now he’s branched out with this pizza joint on Ossington where the same hi-lo approach sees bottles of bubbly slumming with cheesy slices of pizza.
That’s right, order a magnum of champagne (Louis Brison Champagne 2010, $240 to be exact) and you’ll get a cheese pizza for free.
But it’s not purely a pizza joint. While the ovens positioned prominently up front are no doubt the main attraction, further inside the place feels distinctly like a cocktail bar and the menu does much more than just ‘za.
Warm olives ($4), arancini ($6), shrimp spring rolls ($10), and, a burrata and peach salad ($14) represent just a handful of appetizers on offer.
Sides range from cheesy garlic bread ($7) to caesar salad ($12), and a daily soup ($8).
Pizza-wise there are five signature pies on offer including staples like plain cheese ($12) and pepperoni ($14). Peppers and gorgonzola, capocollo with olives, and the n’juda deluxe (each $17) are as gourmet as it gets.
The crust is thin, pliable and pale (but toasty). A generous application of red sauce puts the sweet, bright flavours of tomato upfront and centre.
Aside from the pies, diners can also make a meal of pastas like the lamb cavatelli ($15), chicken parm ($18), and a 20 oz ribeye steak ($85).
It’s the kind of place where dinner and drinks on a budget aren’t impossible, but you could also blow your whole paycheque in a single sitting if you dared.
One thing’s for sure, you won’t regret going either way.