Inside the 12-seat, Michelin-recommended Vancouver sushi bar that’s redefining tradition | Daily Hive

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Good things come in small packages. And that couldn’t be more true when it comes to many of the pint-sized sushi spots in Vancouver, namely, Tetsu Sushi Bar.

With just 12 seats, it’s a sliver of a restaurant. But don’t let its size fool you. It doesn’t take long for a discerning diner to clock its impact lies well beyond its compact square footage.

Tucked away in Vancouver’s West End — on Denman and Robson — if you don’t already know about this eatery, this is your chance to get acquainted.

Chef and owner Satoshi Makise opened Tetsu in 2017, describing the establishment as “unapologetically authentic” when it comes to its cuisine, serving premium Japanese ingredients and offering one of the best omakase services in the city.

As it turns out, Michelin inspectors felt similarly. The restaurant garnered a recommendation from the prestigious global culinary guide in 2023.

Before the accolades, there was (and remains) a chef tirelessly pursuing the best possible experience for his guests.

Standing out in Vancouver’s sushi scene

“Sushi may appear simple, but every choice, every grain, every cut, is intentional.”

Chef Satoshi stands in the centre of his restaurant, unpacking an order fresh from Japan.

We were in on a Friday afternoon, just before enjoying dinner service ourselves, witnessing a moment some culinary geeks only dream about.

First, a whole Hamachi is plucked out of the container lined with reflective silver foil, from another box, cardboard and insulated; this time, emerged prawns with show-stopping, multi-coloured tails. It felt like foodie Christmas.

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Chef Satoshi’s close links to his providers in Japan are an essential part of the fabric that makes up his restaurant’s menu. Tetsu, impressively, is the only restaurant outside Japan to receive products from certain suppliers.

“I’m in constant conversation with our fish importers, discussing sourcing, checking quality, and understanding exactly where each fish comes from. Over time, I’ve shared my preferences with them, built trust, and come to rely on their expertise.”

Satoshi says he aims to share the passion of the fishmongers in Japan here in Vancouver, “carrying their dedication across the ocean.”

“The ingredients we receive are carefully selected and deeply respected. In many ways, we’re the bridge between their craft and the guest. If we can let the ingredient shine, if we can honour it on the plate, then we’ve done our job.”

Whether it’s insights from contacts in Japan or exchanging ideas with local chefs here in Vancouver, Satoshi’s hunger for experimenting, learning, and growing hasn’t faltered yet.

“It’s about continuing to experiment, to adapt, and to evolve with intention,” he says. “I also want to keep building Tetsu’s omakase together with my team, thinking things through, supporting one another, and enjoying the process as it unfolds. One step, one season, one dish at a time.”

Chef Satoshi first cut his professional teeth at Yoshi on Denman, followed by a stint at Shiro on Cambie, and then, he worked at Kiriri in Richmond, where he slowly started shifting away from strict tradition to finding his voice within Japanese cuisine.

Despite his classic training and focus on top-tier ingredients, the chef’s playful side shines through.

“Through sushi, I wanted to build something meaningful here, something personal, intentional, and true to who I am.”

Where tradition meets playfulness

As we settle into our seats at the intimate bar, we notice a trio of handmade origami Godzillas displayed on a tiny ledge to the left. They had been carefully arranged, descending from largest to smallest in size.

“One of our staff once folded a Godzilla, and it immediately brought back childhood memories for me,” Chef Satoshi explains. “It reminded me that food isn’t just about technique, it’s also about emotion, memory, and connection.”

Every guest receives one of these delightful nods to pop culture when they leave the restaurant. We love a party favour, especially a handmade one.

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“People often see Japanese cuisine, especially omakase, as very formal. While we honour the tradition, we also want to bring in elements of playfulness and joy.”

When it comes to the food itself, Satoshi doesn’t play around. We buckled up for the 20-course experience. We knew every bite we were served would be intentional.

The sake was flowing, and one by one, the Japanese appetizers emerged, each arriving on handcrafted plates and bowls brought back from Japan by Satoshi himself.

A seasonal and savoury spot prawn head dashi and red miso soup was first up, followed by delights such as grunt fish and local live spot prawn sashimi, and then abalone with abalone liver sauce.

Like an edible parade, they kept on coming. This portion of the menu wrapped up with lightly boiled grouper with daikon sauce, sautéed bigfin reef squid tentacles with butter soy sauce, and lastly, another spot prawn offering, this time, with udon noodles, salmon roe, and sea urchin from Hokkaido.

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We quickly noticed that producers, fishmongers, and suppliers were praised at every opportunity. In case you somehow forgot about the care the team puts into dishes at any point, you’re swiftly reminded who and where it came from with the introduction of each course.

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Two words: fish and rice

It was time for the best part: Nigiri sushi. The curated selection of standouts featured during this portion of dinner included everything from Barracuda to Golden Eye Snapper, to sea urchin and Smoked Cherry Trout.

A personal highlight for us, the Bluefin Tuna selections, were buttery and melt-in-your-mouth wonderful. The ultimate bite. As simple and delicate as they are precise, these offerings represent the foundation of the experience Chef Satoshi is offering here at Tetsu.

“Fish and rice, two simple words that carry the weight of everything we do.”

“It’s a common belief that all sushi restaurants serve the same fish from Toyosu Market in Tokyo. That may have once been the case, but today we have access to fish from across Japan, each region offering something distinct. With the country surrounded by ocean, flavour, and texture vary depending on where the fish is caught, the waters it swims in, and how it’s handled.”

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Chef Satoshi aims to ensure he uses an array of fish that reflects regional diversity, sourcing mineral-rich coastal waters to colder seas that yield cleaner, firmer textures.

For instance, the chef sources his aori ika (Bigfin Reef Squid) from Shimane Prefecture and requests a larger size when he does. He explains that the thicker body allows for finer cuts, achieving a tender texture.

“This technique increases the surface area that touches the tongue, enhancing the natural sweetness of the squid. It’s not always available, but when it is, I serve it.”

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As for the rice, Tetsu serves a blend of two Japanese varieties: one with slightly larger, softer grains, and another that’s smaller and firmer to the bite.

“Because we age some of our fish to deepen flavour and enhance texture, I prefer rice with a touch more structure. It creates a subtle but important balance. Both the rice and seasoning are adjusted throughout the year, in response to how the fish changes with the seasons.”

It’s the knowledge of details like this that reinforces how much time, effort, and planning restaurant teams put into our food, and how far some go to ensure flavour and quality are prioritized over convenience.

A key part of running a successful business, in Chef Satoshi’s eyes, is noticing the little details, whether it’s in the dishes or a diner’s reaction.

“Beyond seasonality, I also pay attention to the guests themselves, especially those who return.”

“Over time, I begin to remember their preferences, not just what they say, but what their expressions reveal. A pause, a smile, a nod. I watch their reactions, their gestures, how they move through the meal. All those small details tell me something. What they enjoy. What surprises them.”

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Just when we were ready to conclude an exceptional meal and peel ourselves off the sushi bar stools, we were presented with a tiny, delicate plate of miniature sushi, handcrafted using the same premium ingredients as the regular pieces.

This unexpected offering doesn’t happen every night. When the team has bandwidth for it and the time is right, it tends to occur. For those who receive the mini sushi plate, you won’t soon forget it.

Just like the restaurant itself, this gesture was small but packed a punch.

We stare down at the little works of art, which fit snugly in the palm of our hand on yet another beautiful handcrafted plate, and that marked the end of our visit. We viewed it as one last wink from Chef Satoshi and his team on our way out the door, reminding us that despite the daily pressures, life’s meant to be enjoyed and savoured, just like the food at Tetsu.

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Tetsu Sushi Bar offers an evening à la carte menu as well as an omakase selection priced between $198 and $220 per person, available Tuesday through Sunday starting at 5 p.m. Additionally, the restaurant is currently offering a weekend lunch omakase service at $98 per person, running now through the end of August.

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Tetsu Sushi Bar

Address: 775 Denman St., Vancouver
Phone: 604-428-5775

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