Legendary Vancouver chef dishes up wisdom in new documentary

A new film spotlighting legendary Chef Hidekazu Tojo will soon make its big-screen debut at VIFF 2024.

The Chef & the Daruma is a feature-length documentary by director Mads K. Baekkevold and writer Natalie Murao about the pioneer of Japanese cuisine in the West and the inventor of the California roll.

According to the owner and executive chef of Tojo’s Restaurant in Vancouver, many viewers will find something in the film that resonates with their own experiences.

The Chef & the Daruma/Submitted

“It’s a documentary film about my life and experiences, but it’s also much more than that,” Tojo told Daily Hive. “It’s about tradition, creativity, art, inspiration, family, friendship, the immigrant experience and adapting to changing times.”

For almost 40 years, Tojo has been a leading figure in Vancouver’s food scene, winning awards and accolades while representing a blend of Japanese heritage and Canadian spirit.

But his culinary journey goes back much further than that to his childhood home in Japan.

The Chef & the Daruma/Submitted

“I grew up in a large, modest family, and everyone had their assigned tasks to contribute to the household,” Chef Tojo explained. “My responsibility was cooking for the family, a role I took on when I was eight years old. With my mom being a vegetarian, I had to get creative in making meals exciting for my siblings. They always seemed to appreciate my cooking, but one meal stands out in my memory.

“I made curry using canned mackerel, vegetables from our backyard garden, and my own homemade roux. The recipe was different from the traditional Japanese curry dish, but the dish turned out to be even more delicious with the combination of home-grown ingredients and rich, savoury flavour of the mackerel. That experience taught me how much fun it was to be creative in the kitchen—and how rewarding it felt when my family enjoyed what I had made.”

The 74-year-old is still going strong, sharing his passion for local delicacies and ingredients with diners from around the world. And now he’s looking forward to connecting with fans in a new way through The Chef & the Daruma.

The Chef & the Daruma/Submitted

“For me, every day brings fresh opportunities, new experiences and possibilities,” Tojo added. “There are new ingredients to explore and interesting people to meet. My long-time customers also keep me inspired, constantly pushing me to innovate.

“I make it a point to create at least one new dish for them each time they visit, ensuring they always have something exciting to look forward to.”

Baekkevold told Daily Hive that the inspiration for the documentary came when he was selected to create a short promo for the Michelin Guide’s launch in Vancouver.

“In the video, I interviewed several local chefs and food figures, including Tojo. During our hour-long chat, I found him endlessly captivating – a wonderful storyteller with a life full of incredible experiences.

“While filming B-roll at his restaurant, I noticed a large Daruma doll, a round, red papier mâché figure modelled after a stern Buddhist monk. That really broke the ice as Tojo and I chatted about the significance of Daruma, discovering a shared outlook on life and aspirations.”

The Chef & the Daruma/Submitted

Baekkevold brought the concept to production company Wallop Film, pitched the film to Telus, and helped bring writer and creative producer Natalie Murao on board the project.

“[Murao] made the doors open up to our larger narratives and themes and served as a massively insightful creative partner and collaborator who made sure the story was authentic, lived, and respectful on every possible level. The film could not have happened without her careful, expert guidance.”

Murao is a yonsei (fourth-generation) Japanese Canadian filmmaker and educator. One of her favourite moments came when Chef Tojo visited Harada, a quaint restaurant in Kyoto that specializes in dashi.

The Chef & the Daruma/Submitted

“One of the dashi samples from his multi-dashi tasting course was made from katsuobushi that was smoked with cherry blossom branches,” she shared. “When I sipped it, I felt like my tongue immediately started salivating, it was insanely savoury. I finally understood what umami meant.

“When I look back on the film as a whole, what is most memorable to me is how the film touches on the diverse experiences of the Japanese Canadian community. There are many different generations in the community, from new immigrants to fourth and fifth generation, that have contributed to the rich history and culture. I hope viewers come away with a deeper understanding and newfound knowledge of the Japanese Canadian community.

Tojo is also excited for filmgoers to experience The Chef & the Daruma when it opens at VIFF 2024 and to be able to share some important life lessons with viewers.

The Chef & the Daruma/Submitted

“There is a Japanese philosophy called ‘Ichigo Ichie’ that embodies this, meaning, treasure each moment and each opportunity. Find meaning in even the most challenging moments. Do what you love, trust that by pursuing your passions, you can achieve your goals.”

Fans of Canadian music will be proud to know that Tojo is also looking forward to seeing another film at this year’s festival.

“I’m eager to watch the documentary on the legendary Canadian Band, the Tragically Hip [The Tragically Hip: No Dress Rehearsal]. Over the years, I had the privilege of cooking for them, and they were not only remarkable musicians but also genuinely kind and down-to-earth people.”

The Chef & the Daruma at VIFF 2024

When: September 30, October 3, 5 and 6, 2024
Time: Various times
Where: Various locations
Tickets: Single tickets range from $14 to $19, with ticket packs and festival passes also available. VIFF+ Members receive discounts on all VIFF tickets, and the free U25 membership offers additional discounts to those between the ages of 19 and 25. Purchase online.