We tried Quadro Ristorante, College Street's upscale Italian enclave
Quadro Ristorante opened exclusively as a patio in June 2021, when every second store was firmly shut, and semi-optimistic “we’ll be back soon” signs dangled from rusty unturned doorknobs, as crinkled sheets of unstuck window coverings flapped sluggishly in the wind.
But amongst the static, veteran restaurateur and hospitality mogul Tony Longo and his business partner, renowned Canadian designer Joe Mimran, (Club Monaco, Joe Fresh) spotted an opportunity.
Fast forward to March 2023 and Quadro is just the latest addition to their already impressive roster of culinary and entrepreneurial feats.
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Quadro began with Tony, who started working in restaurants at 15 to help support his family, before moving his way up the ranks to Dining Room Captain at La Scala then Manager at the once illustrious Centro.
His palpable predisposition for entrepreneurship practically bounced off the moodily lit walls of Quadro’s College Street enclave, as he recalled the highs and lows of his decades-long career, punctuated by considerable stints at INK Entertainment Group, Splendido, and Flow.
When Quadro first opened in 2021 dining al fresco was all the Ontario Government would permit. It was a period characterized by Torontonians practically tripping over themselves for a table just about anywhere.
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Despite the rush, business was slow at first for Quadro, but soon its patio was populated by a steady flow of diners in search of some shade and a summery cocktail.
In an era where wishful daydreams of dining inside were traded in for real-life outdoor alternatives, its patio began to thrive, and Quadro hastily made ground as news of its stealthy service and large-scale seating capacity spread.
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Now, Quadro is a fully-fledged enterprise, its patio bolsters bookings during the summer months, whilst the interior stands firm as its year-round backbone. Guests tend to pour in on Friday and Saturday nights; their best chance of snagging a spot, like any restaurant shrouded by an intangible buzz, is to book in advance.
Nonetheless, a prolonged lull in bookings on weekdays has proven tricky to navigate, a problem Tony attributes to the ongoing aftereffects of the pandemic. Put simply, once people traded in their daily commutes to work from home, the volume of weekday clientele dwindled across the board.
In response to the culinary world’s increasingly fluid yet demanding landscape, Tony and Joe elected to diversify the business by incorporating a space with the potential to supplement the slowing of mid-week walk-ins.
Above the main dining area, dark green walls sculpt an inconspicuous upstairs retreat, as an ever-evolving playlist of late-night essentials elevates the room. Intended for private cocktail parties and corporate dinners, the newly renovated top floor comes fitted with its own bar and plentiful seating that’s easy to re-configure.
Rachel Goodman/Daily Hive
Tony’s attention to detail is distinct, from the way he recalls his early days in the industry to the manner of his decision-making, but particularly when it comes to design, years spent alongside Joe Mimran inevitably rubbing off on him; evidenced by the restaurants’ ubiquitously low lighting, the kind synonymous with up-to-the-minute urban eateries, not to mention the significance of the name Quadro, which means frame in Italian.
Its namesake plays heavily into the overarching concept, including the menu. The aim, according to Tony is to offer “elevated traditional Italian food that’s tasty, well presented and recognizable.” But the ease with which a pie vanishes into the piping hot pizza oven before appearing surreptitiously, bubbly and blistering in front of you, should not be mistaken for lacklustre preparation.
In fact, Tony and Joe scoured through 30 to 40 iterations of flour before landing on the final formula for their dough. It was imperative that it held up under the weight of goldened, oozing mozzarella submerged in a generous layer of velvety sauce.
Rachel Goodman/Daily Hive
An extensive, exclusively Italian wine list bolsters a well-curated selection of dishes, and the baked focaccia, complimented by the subtle sweetness of fresh figs, proves a delightfully shareable starter.
So too do the zucchini fritters, which come dusted in parmesan cheese and lemon aioli to dip. The crispy calamari rounds out a versatile array of antipasti, whilst the hot honey pepperoni pizza enlivens a main menu counterbalanced by crowd-pleasing classics such as Pizza Napoli and Spaghetti Pomodoro.
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Woven into a cocktail menu teeming with the unmistakable flavours of Campari and Prosecco, are playful concoctions of whiskey and sweet vermouth.
The Succhello Gimlet arrives with an intricately placed chilli clinging to the rim that once dropped into the glass erupts with spice before dispersing amongst notes of elderflower and lime.
A Negroni Sbagliatio, the increasingly popular rendition of the well-known beverage, makes an unassuming appearance amongst a stellar list of classic drinks with an Italian twist.
Rachel Goodman/Daily Hive
Tony and Joe set out to strike a balance with Quadro, designing a restaurant and a menu substantial enough to stand alone and inviting enough to draw people in without relying on the crazed pace of a trend cycle.
But that’s easier said than done.
It’s tempting, especially in a business cushioned by enviably appetizing images, to move with the crowd, but sacrificing culinary integrity in pursuit of virality is a path Quadro appears to have sidestepped.
Whilst its food certainly looks delicious and holds up under the eagle-eyed lens of an iPhone, its true flare is best captured in real life.
Quadro Ristorante
Address: 577 College Street, Toronto
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