'An ode to second-gen immigrants': Inside Calgary's newest Vietnamese restaurant

When we got word that a new restaurant from the family behind some of Calgary’s most beloved Vietnamese eateries was opening, it immediately shot up to the very top of our to-eat lists.

Having opened its doors in early December, Lai Rai has been brought to life by the same minds behind the extremely popular restaurants Pho Dau Bo and Mot To.

Hannah Chu, who co-owns Lai Rai alongside her father, Long, tells Dished that in contrast to Pho Dau Bo and Mot To, Lai Rai is more of an “ode to second-gen immigrants.”

Bit by bit

It’s safe to say restaurants are something Hannah knows inside out, having spent many years in the back of Pho Dau Bo watching her father cook.

“I was the little scooter kid going straight through the restaurant being an absolute menace,” She adds.

While Pho Dau Bo, a quintessential Vietnamese restaurant, opened in 2008, the family opened Mot To in 2022, offering modern Vietnamese cuisine with Western flair, with crowd-pleasing additions such as Pho Grilled Cheese.

In recent years, Hannah and her family visited Vietnam, and those trips were where the inspiration for Lai Rai really took shape.

With bright colours (peep the blue feature wall), trinkets aplenty and family photos adorning the walls, the restaurant aims to stay true to its Vietnamese roots with a cool and fresh vibe.

Lai Rai translates directly to “bit by bit,” but in Vietnam, it has a more casual meaning when it comes to dining.

“It’s more like snacking, drinking, hanging out with your friends, and just forgetting where the time has gone,” Hannah explains.

What’s on the menu?

At Lai Rai, you’ll find a combination of small plates, noodles, handhelds, and, at dinner, a few larger shareable dishes. If you’re a fan of its predecessors, don’t fear, as favourites such as its Sate Pho and Pho Grilled Cheese can be found here too.

However, there are also some exciting new additions, such as the Banh Khot, a crispy turmeric pancake topped with prawns and pickled veggies, which guests can top with sauce and sambal before wrapping in lettuce leaves.

While visiting, we had to pick up a Sate Pho. Now, this one is a best seller at both Pho Dau Bo and Mot To, so we already knew it would be good.

The spicy peanut broth is simmered for 16 hours, served with silky noodles, your choice of beef, chicken or tofu, bean sprouts, basil and lime. It’s deliciously savoury and rich with a hint of coconut. If you’re unsure of where to start with Lai Rai’s menu, this is an excellent starting point.

From the dinner menu, we also had to try out the Banh Mi Chao. With sliced beef sirloin, two fried eggs, liver pâté, and a handmade pork meatball, served with a baguette, it gives sweet and savoury Vietnamese breakfast-for-dinner vibes. How you eat it is up to you, whether you want to assemble your own sandwich or dip the baguette.

If you’re visiting Lai Rai, it is very important that you pick up a matcha. While the spot serves original and strawberry varieties, we would highly recommend the black sesame. It’s still sweet, but with a nuttiness from the sesame that is so tasty. It may have even snuck its way in as one of our top matcha spots in the city.

Lai Rai is open Tuesday through Saturday for both lunch and dinner.

Lai Rai

Address: #110 201 10th Ave. SE, Calgary

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