Everything I did during my coastal escape in beautiful Ucluelet this fall

There’s a special kind of beauty you can only experience in the Pacific Northwest in fall. Last weekend, I took a trip to the wild west coast of Vancouver Island, and it reminded me why I love this part of the world and this time of year.

Ucluelet (or Ukee) is a small coastal town near Tofino and Port Alberni, known for its rugged beaches, marine wildlife, and epic storm-watching opportunities.

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

I spent a weekend wandering through ancient rainforests, watching surfers catch waves, exploring the coastline, and drinking a lot of good coffee.

If you’re looking for a fall getaway with a mix of adventure and coziness, Ucluelet should be top of your list. Here’s everything I did in three days there to inspire your own trip.

Day 01

A road trip to remember

Tourism Ucluelet

On Friday morning, I hopped on a BC Ferries sailing from Tsawwassen to Nanaimo’s Duke Point terminal. If you want to get directly to Ucluelet, you can also fly from Vancouver with Harbour Air (from spring to early fall), but if you ask me, the drive across the island is half the fun — especially in fall.

If you’re coming from Calgary or Edmonton, you can also fly direct to Nanaimo, and then rent a car to drive the rest of the way. Another option is to fly directly into Comox, which is about a 3-hour drive away.

After fuelling up with a Nanaimo bar and a coffee, we hit the road. The drive takes about two-and-a-half hours, which really isn’t bad at all. The trees were just starting to change colour as we made our way west, creating splashes of orange and red that whizzed past the car windows.

There are plenty of fun stops you can make along the way if you want to break up the drive. We stopped to snap a picture of the beloved goats on the roof at Coombs Market and took a stroll through Cathedral Grove to stretch our legs and see gigantic ancient trees. Visiting in fall or winter also means you can enjoy these popular places during a quieter time of year, when things tend to feel a little more chilled and less crowded.

It wasn’t long til we arrived in Ukee around late afternoon to misty, moody weather that set the scene perfectly.

First taste of Ukee

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

We checked into the Bayshore Waterfront Inn, which was right at the scenic Inner Harbour. The family-run hotel is just a short walk from Ucluelet’s main restaurants and stores, and less than a 15-minute walk to Big Beach, which was first on my agenda.

We made our way through the streets, taking in the quaint surroundings and getting our first taste of Ukee’s small-town charm. I noticed that locals said hello as we walked past, and there was a real easygoing, friendly feel to the place that made me feel far removed from the big city. We even spotted a little group of deer foraging on a grassy patch.

As we emerged from the trees near Big Beach, my jaw literally dropped at the view stretching out in front of me. Dramatic rock formations jutted out from the shoreline as foaming waves crashed up against them.

I walked along the giant black rocks, took in the breathtaking views, and even spotted the remains of a shipwreck along the beach. While the weather was pretty mild — being early fall — I can only imagine how awesome it is a little later in the year during storm watching season.

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

After exploring, we headed to Ucluelet Brewing Company, a hip, laid back spot built inside an old church. I’m not much of a beer drinker, but you’d be spoiled for choice if you were. I instead went for one of the rotating ciders on tap, which was a blood orange and rosemary flavour. It was so delicious that I had to order a second, along with a bite to eat.

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

After that, it was time to go to back the hotel for the night and get some rest. We had a very big day of exploring ahead of us tomorrow.

Day 02

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

We started our second day in Ucluelet with oat lattes and pastries from The Break Cafe, before driving about 20 minutes to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.

I walked Rainforest Trail A and B, two winding boardwalk loops that take you through towering cedar trees. Both trails were beautiful, silent, and ethereal, and I’d recommend them to people of all fitness levels. Just don’t be like us and accidentally walk the wrong way at first… it made for a lot of awkward shuffling past other hikers!

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

We then pulled into Cox Bay Beach to watch the surfers do their thing before heading to Wickaninnish Beach, where we walked for ages through soft sand, listening to the waves and breathing in that crisp ocean air. It was also so cool to see different kinds of jellyfish washed up along the beach, along with tiny hermit crabs.

The Wild Pacific Trail

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

In the afternoon, it was back to Ucluelet for one of the best things to do in the area: hike the Lighthouse Loop, part of the Wild Pacific Trail.

The only word to describe this 2.6 km trail is majestic. It only takes about 45 minutes, and it has little to no elevation, but factor in more time, as there are so many viewpoints you’ll want to stop at!

Seeing the iconic Amphitrite Lighthouse itself perched atop the rolling waves was magnificent. Fun fact: This loop was actually named one of the best hiking trails in the U.S. and Canada, and now I know why!

Pizza time

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

By the time evening rolled around, we’d really worked up an appetite! So we decided to check out Shipwreck Pizza for dinner.

It was exactly what we needed after a full day of hiking and beach-hopping: a casual restaurant with a chilled-out atmosphere, great pizza, and full of locals and tourists alike. We opted for the Loaded Cheese and the Navaggio, washed down with a craft beer and a cider.

Sunset on the beach, moonlight on the harbour

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

We decided to end our night in Ucluelet with one last stroll down to Big Beach. And what transpired was actually one of the most magical experiences of my life.

I sat on a log and caught the most beautiful sunset I’ve ever seen. The beach was full of people just as mesmerized, some sitting around fires and enjoying picnics, others with cameras out trying to capture the moment.

Then, as I walked back towards my hotel by the harbour, I spotted a huge full moon casting its glow across the calm waters.

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

It was one of those evenings that made me really stop for a second and appreciate just how special it is to experience a place like Ucluelet.

Day 03

Local stores and art

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

Sunday had arrived and it was time to head back to Vancouver, but not before one last little exploration of what Ucluelet had to offer.

We got caffeinated at The Barkley Cafe and visited Reflecting Spirit Gallery, which showcases both established and emerging B.C. artists. We checked out some fascinating sculptures and paintings by Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ – Ucluelet First Nations artists, and picked up some stickers and postcards to remember our trip.

Katy Brennan/Daily Hive

We got chatting to a local, who let us know that the Ucluelet Sunday Market was taking place down on the Village Green. We were more than happy to spend some time browsing the vendors and seeing even more local art.

Ucluelet Aquarium

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After that, we had one more thing to tick off the list: Ucluelet Aquarium. Personally, I do not usually visit aquariums or zoos for ethical reasons, but this one is different. It operates on a catch-and-release model. All its marine animals are collected locally, stay for a few months, and are then put back into their exact home habitats.

The animals are displayed in open-top tanks, and the water they use is pumped straight from the adjacent harbour to mimic the surrounding ecosystem. The staff are clearly passionate and very knowledgeable, so it’s a great learning experience, especially if you’ve got kids in tow.

It’s also cool because it means what’s on display changes a lot, so you could see something different every time you go.

Until next time, Ucluelet

Tourism Ucluelet

That was it for my quick trip to Ucluelet, but I’ll for sure be back. There are a few things I’d do differently next time, starting with getting out on the water.

I’d love to see more of the area’s marine life with a whale-watching trip via Jamie’s Whaling Station. (However, we were treated to a pretty spectacular send-off on the ferry back to Vancouver, with humpback whales dipping in and out of the water alongside the boat!)

I’d also book a stay at Black Rock Oceanfront Resort and visit their Drift Spa to help me relax and unwind even more. Here, you can even storm watch from the comfort of the hotel bar!

Want to start planning your own fall or winter trip? Head over to the Tourism Ucluelet website to get even more inspiration.